Living With Islam in Saudi Arabia

What is it like living as a non-Muslim in Wahhabi Saudi Arabia?

I meditate and I am student of Buddhist scripture, but I don't think of myself as a Buddhist. Under the religion field on my iqama, it says "unspecified". I like that it doesn't say "athiest". There is baggage that comes with that term. Usually it means an ego-centric perspective, a closed mind, and an outright denial of the supernatural (in whatever conception). "Agnostic" is better, but I prefer "unspecified." And the term is pragmatic: it allows me to work here, while if it said "athiest," that  may not be the case.  

When I am out and about, and mixing with the locals, and I meet someone new, usually the first question I am asked is, "are you American?" To which I respond, "No, I'm Canadian." Which is usually met with nodding approval. The next question is, "Are you Muslim?" To which I reply "No," and am met with silent disapproval...or an enthusiastic, impromptu attempt at conversion.

Sometimes I tell them I have no religion and sometimes I tell them I'm Buddhist. I'm not sure which is the worse response. When I tell them I don't have  religion, I'm always asked if I believe in God. But when I ask what God is, they just get confused, as if they had never considered the question before. Well, I get confused too and I've considered the question a good deal. In any case, I know better than to engage in a theological debate. I just try to communicate that I'm not sure what God is, anyway, and therefore, I'm not ready to accept Islam...which is usually not a satisfactory answer. When I tell them I'm Buddhist, they are similarly confused...perhaps because they don't know anything about Buddhism. But they know it's a religion, and it's not Islam, so it's not what they want to hear.

I don't disapprove of Islam. I can see how praying, fasting, adhering to a clearly defined set of ethics and living a life of devotion can be beneficial for some. I can see how it can be really beneficial for others. I don't think it's a bad way to go, all-in-all, and living here has made me much more sympathetic to Islam. It's not the malevolent force the Western mind sometimes imagines it to be. The quality of the religion depends on the practitioner.  

There are some very serious practitioners here--especially coverts and native Saudis of the older generation. These are the ones who get the most out of Islam. They pray five times a day. They are careful that their actions are virtuous (halal) and not sinful (haram). They practice whole-heartedly, and they are devout. I've met a few like this and they are good and happy men.

But for some Saudis, particularly young ones, being Muslim seems more of  an obligatory posturing than genuine faith. Sure, they may go to the mosque to pray, but they may nearly run you over with their cars on the way there. Sure, they may observe Ramadan, but they may also run off to Bahrain to go drinking and whoring when the month is over. 

Islam is not a choice for Saudis. They are born Muslim and they are expected to act Muslim.  For an ex-pat, being non-Muslim is not always accepted, but it is for the most part  tolerated, provided you follow the rules.

Islam is an inexorable part of Saudi culture; this society is built around it. I could live here twenty years and speak the language fluently, and never feel culturally integrated without adopting Islam. On the other hand, if I were to become Muslim, I feel like I could integrate...and I think that says something significant, because having lived in Korea for two years, I can say with confidence that I could spend twenty years in Korea, religion or no, and still not feel culturally integrated there.