The Incredible Benefits of Working in Saudi Arabia

Today, I'll be writing a bit about the fall semester so far, in order to show how low-stress and rewarding being employed in Saudi Arabia can be.

After coming back from vacation a month ago, we teachers spent the first week doing very little. We cleaned our desks, we proctored re-sits for students who had failed to show up to their exams the previous month. Our schedules weren't ready, so we couldn't preview what we would be teaching so, I spent most of the week drilling Arabic vocabulary.

At the beginning of the second week I got my schedule, and to my amazement and delight, I had a mere nineteen classroom hours. Additionally, I would be teaching classes wherein the trainees would not be given grades, and in which I could significantly alter the syllabus. I have zero responsibility to make the students test-passers, as they will not be tested on material taught in my class, which means we can have some fun!. I take teaching seriously, but I believe that classes should be engaging. This semester, I could really test that theory. I could see what works, and what doesn't, and hopeful get they students excited about learning.




To make matters even better, in addition to teaching a section of level three students, I got a section of new recruits, which are for the most part very bright and well-behaved. They are so well behaved that I'm starting to feel less like a baby-sitter and more like an actual honest to God teacher. 

The first four week went fairly well...

And now because of Eid al-Adha, we're all on vacation again. Originally, I thought it would only be ten days, but it turned out to be fifteen. So, I've been relaxing in Rabigh since last Thursday, studying Arabic, doing Yoga, practicing meditation, wandering around, and all of the other things I enjoy that are legal in Rabigh. Tomorrow, I fly to Sri Lanka, where I'll spend the next ten days, and do some things which are NOT legal here.

When I get back, we will have eight more weeks of classes, and then we will be off on vacation once again...and if decide not to renew my contract, I'll have just over a month after that until I am free to wander the world, go back to visit Canada, or go seek employment elsewhere.

Coming soon: Sri Lanka

Driving is Insane in Saudi Arabia

Eight months in, and I got in my first car accident in Saudi Arabia. FINALLY. Gosh, I though it was never going to happen. I kept asking myself, "what is wrong with me? Am I that unattractive that no one in this entire country is going to violently smash their vehicle into mine?

I've mentioned it before, but I figure now is good time to devote an entry to driving in Saudi Arabia. It's insane. The infrastructure is screwy, the drivers think they're formula one hopefuls, gas is literally cheaper than water, and the cops are ambivalent. Small wonder it's often  harder to spot a vehicle that doesn't have obvious body damage than one that does.

The accident my roommate and I were in, as you can see, was relatively minor. Perhaps in describing it, I can give some insight into a typical driving experience here. Context: there are no stop signs, nor are their dividing lines painted on the road. So. We were just arriving home. My roommate, Erron was driving. He banked slightly right, before he turned left into the parking spot, so he could park straight. While he was banking right, a truck ran straight through the four-way, tried to pass us on the left, so he hit us as we were turning.

When the cop came to the scene, he was as relaxed as a sloth in a tree. While he listened to both Erron and the other driver tell their accounts, he didn't seem particularly interested in either.  In fact, he didn't even step out of his vechicle to take a proper look at the accident, let alone take pictures. All the while, cars were passing the accident on the left and the right, which didn't seem to bother the policeman at all. He seemingly arbitrary surmised that the it was twenty-five per cent Erron's fault and seventy-five percent the other driver's fault.

I hope this gets sorted out soon, so we can get another rental...but I'm not keeping my fingers crossed. 


As reckless as the drivers are here, it's a wonder that there aren't more accidents. Last night, I saw a kid in a smashed-up car blaze down the street toward Rabigh's busiest intersection, pull up obliquely in front of first cars in line waiting for the red to change, and then run the light. I wish this were atypical--but it's not. And dimes to dollars no one wrote down his license plate number or called the police.
 
The problem lies not only with poor driving habits, but also with the poor infrastructure. If there were a stop sign in place, maybe just maybe that guy would have at least slowed down and avoided hitting us. It should be tougher to get a license. But even if it were harder, this is Saudi Arabia, and if you have wasta (influence), or know someone with wasta, you can get around just about anything. Cops need to start giving more tickets--they clearly don't do this enough. I think part of the reason why, is that if they stop a Saudi, they will argue with them...and if they have wasta, they may even threaten them!

Proper infrastructure should be put it place. It would help...although it would still be dangerous. People here drive like absolute maniacs. Why? Maybe because it's the only fun thing you're allowed to do here. Especially for young men. Back home, kids would have other outlets. They could go to rock concerts, go out with girls, go see a movie or go compete in a sporting event. (You're allowed to do sports here, it's just too hot and there isn't much interest). But here there is nothing. So kids get in their cars, and they go "drifting", which means they drive so bloody fast that the tires are barely touching the road.

This means that people die. Every trimester one of the trainees is either seriously injured or dies in an auto accident. Every one of my trainees knows someone who has died in an auto accident. Last trimester, two of out instructors got into a serious auto accident because a Saudi was driving recklessly. The instructor who was driving was not wearing a seat belt, and he was thrown through the window. The other shattered his right leg, and had to crawl out of the burning wreckage. He came quite close to dying after contracting pneumonia as a result of third-rate medical treatment.  

Of course, the terrible road planning doesn't help. Sometimes you have to make some inconvenient detours in able to turn around and get to where you want to go. This results in people driving on the wrong side of the street. The traffic lights are terrible: they are often placed several feet before the intersection, so drivers can't see the lights turn, and often they just guess. Also. there isn't any paint on the road to speak of--rarely do you come across a four-way stop, there are few zebra crossings, and not often there aren't even lines in the middle of the road. So, people often act like the rules that those marking as are there to remind us of don't exist! People drive in the middle of the road, they go through four ways without stopping. God help you if you're a pedestrian walking across the street if there's a car coming.

So, yeah. The driving here is insane. If you've never been to these parts before, and decide to drive. Please exercise caution!

Extra-Saudi Special: Budapest Hungary VS. Taipei, Taiwan

At the request of my good friend David, fellow ESL teacher and Hungarian resident, the following is a comparison of two fantastic, but very different cities: Budapest and Hungary. I had the pleasure of visiting Budapest for the first time last April, and fell in love with the city. This last vacation, I went to Taiwan, and fell in love all over again with Taipei. It's difficult to say which is the objectively better city, so I'll compare based on different aspects and then declare a winner!

Architecture 

Budapest is resplendent with gorgeous architecture spanning centuries back in time to the present. It has been called The Paris of the East, and not without good reason. Although, not much has been added to it's splendor from the communist era, the university, the parliament building and the castle, the bath house, churches and a plethora of Parisian-style apartment buildings enrich the city with their anachronistic and distinctly European charm.

As late as the nineteen-seventies, the Taiwanese still imagined they would make conquest of mainland China, so much of Taipei is still dominated by dull, blocky, and frankly ugly buildings. There are some notable exceptions, like the Grand Hotel, Chaing Kai Shek memorial, and the theaters that flank it. And in addition, the old, drab structures are rapidly giving way to modern buildings, Taipei 101 being the superlative example.

Taipei is looking better all the time, but even in ten or twenty years when most of the old buildings have been replaced, it won't have any of the richness of character than Budapest has now. For that reason, if nothing else Budapest gets the prize for best architecture.
   

Green Space 

Sadly, I while I was in Hungary, I didn't get a chance to get out of the city. Although I do understand that the country is very nice indeed, especially around the massive lake Balaton. Never mind. There is plenty of trees and greenery on the city itself, particularly around the citadel...or pretty much anywhere. Budapest is of a temperate climate, but it's a warm temperate, and the city is symbiotically intertwined with nature, making it a very nice city to be in all year 'round.

Taiwan is a beautiful island from top to bottom, and in particular in Toroko gorge on the east coast. But again, we're not comparing the countries as a whole--were comparing the capitals. Unfortunately, much of Taipei is crowded with the aforementioned ghastly architecture, crammed around narrow streets bereft of anything green save the vegetables aged Tawianese are want to flog on the sidewalks. However, Taipei is a big city and there is a lot to love in the way of nature, which is all accessible from the excellent metro. From lush the Maokong area, accessible by Gondola, and Yangminshan, with it's hot springs to the north, to the many riverside paths and swimming holes, to the very central, and superbly laid-out Daan Park, to Fulong beach (yes, I know it's outside the city, but come on, it's only a shorty train ride away), Taipei offers exceptional variety for lovers of the outdoors...although you may have to go a bit out of your way to get there.

The verdict: a tie! Although Budapest has perfectly integrated green space into it's urban environment, Taipei offers more variety.

Amenities

Although Budapest is not the largest, nor the most modern of cities (both advantages to my mind), it does have all of the amenities one could hope for: shopping malls, casinos, theaters, nice hotels. It has Thai massage places. It has at least one chiropractor. You can get whatever you want in terms of recreational pharmaceuticals (if you know who to ask). There are all sorts of restaurants, and the beer selection is exquisite. The public bath is the best I've ever seen. There are museums, and parks galore. There are bars in spades. And nice cafes. The only thing I'm not sure of is the music scene, although I've got a hunch there's a pretty decent one.  

Taiwan: it doesn't have the amazing outdoor bath, but it has some pretty fantastic indoor ones. It has massage parlors galore, which are significantly more affordable than the ones in Budapest. There are chiropractors. Plus there are a gajillion acupuncture/Chinese medicine clinics. There are even places with good beers selections. Plus it's hella-bigger, so naturally, there is all sorts of other neat stuff, like the zoo, gondolas, tea houses, etc. 

Taiwan.

People

Hungarians are fantastic. They are polite, warm-hearted, generous, kind, amorous, down-to-earth, and intelligent. And their women are gorgeous...aw heck, they're all pretty good looking. 

Taiwanese are very pleasant people as well. They have the same work ethic, wherewithal,  and community spirit that Koreans have...but unlike Koreans, they are open-minded, creative, forward-thinking, and not terribly racist against foreigners.* Also, Taiwanese girls are to die for.

Tie!

 

Cost of Living

Hungary, by European standards is very cheap indeed. You'll pay about seven dollars, Canadian for a movie ticket. Even a very good meal will seldom cost more than ten dollars. A pint of draft beer will run you about three dollars in a pub. But here's the big thing: the cost of real-estate is low. How low you ask? So low, young couples can still afford to get a mortgage. Wow!

Actually, the prices in Taipei for a lot of things are pretty much on par with those in Budapest. The main differences are that there are a lot of (night) markets with cheap stuff from China, you can get a quick and dirt meal for three dollars, home baked electronics (ex. Asus) are a bit cheaper, and buying real estate is super expensive--although renting is curiously cheap.

Taipei is cheaper...as long as you're renting.

Food

Hungary is world famous for its meats and it's produce. A tour of the fruits and vegetable stalls, and hole in the wall butcher shops will not let you leave without a full grocery bag in each hand, and a lustful dream of the night's dinner.  If you don't feel like cooking, you can be sure to find a restaurant to suit your  tastes, whatever they might be!

Taiwanese food, frankly is nothing to write home about. Mostly bland Chinese food and dumplings. The hot-pots are good though !Oh, and the night markets have some interesting (if not delicious) foods, like blood pudding on a stick, covered with spicy peanut powder. Try the bubble tea though!

Overall Livability 

Budapest is a really beautiful city. It's steeped in culture. The architecture is amazing. The food is fantastic. The people: warm-hearted. It's affordable. There are all the amenities. There are wide open spaces. There is a charming tram. Gypsies fill the streets with music. Couples kiss openly in public. Young artists sketch along the river. Pretty much anywhere is the perfect place for a jog. It's Shangri-La under a different name. The only problem is that everyone speaks Hungarian...oh well, you can sort of get by on English?

Taiwan is a prince of a city. Located on the norther tip of a tropical island paradise. Ideologically, and geographically positioned between China and the United States. A bustling metropolis, with open spaces, and a thousand and one things to do. Affordable on any budget. Full of adorable Taiwanese girls. And you can definitely get by just speaking English...you can also land a job teaching ESL quite easily!

I love you Taiwan, but Budapest is just so damn pleasant. The winner is Budapest.


The Grand Champion: Budapest.

Although, I must end by saying that Taiwan is an amazing city and I would be happier than a pig in mud to live there.






*Don't get me wrong--Koreans will welcome you into their homes, or they will take you out for a night of drinking and foot the bill, but they will not be happy to know you're dating their daughters.