Sand Storm

Ninety-nine per cent of the time, the weather in Rabigh is the same: hot and humid. Perhaps that's not accurate: ninety-five per cent of the time the weather here is either hot, or ridiculously hot. Another four and three quarters per cent of the time, it is comfortably warm. But occasionally, it does rain, although it's not the kind of rain that I am used to.

As I remember back to January, driving into Rabigh from the airport in Jeddah, I remember seeing a sign on the highway warning that it was a sandstorm area. In my mind, I imagined vicious two-hundred kilometers per hour winds, full of sand, that would shred the skin off one's face like an industrial grinder.

Well, my experience of a sandstorm in Rabigh was a much different affair. I was going out for dinner with my neighbor and colleague, Rowa. It was about a seven minute walk to the restaurant from our apartment building. It was a night like any other, except it was a bit cooler (in the tolerably hot category).

We weren't in the restaurant long, perhaps thirty minutes at the most, but it was remarkably cooler and a brisk wind was picking up, and it was drizzling. The streets were deserted (although this may have been in on account of prayer time). The wind was getting stronger and stronger, then inexplicably it began to rain...mud.

Now, it's wasn't exactly pouring, and there weren't big globs of the stuff coming down, but the water in the air has mixed with the ever-present sandy particulate, the result was everything getting coated in this brown, watery mixture. I was a little bit afraid that the wind would get so intense that a more liquidy version or my initial vision would come to pass. But it was not to be so.

All in all the experience was bizarre and intriguing, though it posed very little danger!

 

Living With Islam in Saudi Arabia

What is it like living as a non-Muslim in Wahhabi Saudi Arabia?

I meditate and I am student of Buddhist scripture, but I don't think of myself as a Buddhist. Under the religion field on my iqama, it says "unspecified". I like that it doesn't say "athiest". There is baggage that comes with that term. Usually it means an ego-centric perspective, a closed mind, and an outright denial of the supernatural (in whatever conception). "Agnostic" is better, but I prefer "unspecified." And the term is pragmatic: it allows me to work here, while if it said "athiest," that  may not be the case.  

When I am out and about, and mixing with the locals, and I meet someone new, usually the first question I am asked is, "are you American?" To which I respond, "No, I'm Canadian." Which is usually met with nodding approval. The next question is, "Are you Muslim?" To which I reply "No," and am met with silent disapproval...or an enthusiastic, impromptu attempt at conversion.

Sometimes I tell them I have no religion and sometimes I tell them I'm Buddhist. I'm not sure which is the worse response. When I tell them I don't have  religion, I'm always asked if I believe in God. But when I ask what God is, they just get confused, as if they had never considered the question before. Well, I get confused too and I've considered the question a good deal. In any case, I know better than to engage in a theological debate. I just try to communicate that I'm not sure what God is, anyway, and therefore, I'm not ready to accept Islam...which is usually not a satisfactory answer. When I tell them I'm Buddhist, they are similarly confused...perhaps because they don't know anything about Buddhism. But they know it's a religion, and it's not Islam, so it's not what they want to hear.

I don't disapprove of Islam. I can see how praying, fasting, adhering to a clearly defined set of ethics and living a life of devotion can be beneficial for some. I can see how it can be really beneficial for others. I don't think it's a bad way to go, all-in-all, and living here has made me much more sympathetic to Islam. It's not the malevolent force the Western mind sometimes imagines it to be. The quality of the religion depends on the practitioner.  

There are some very serious practitioners here--especially coverts and native Saudis of the older generation. These are the ones who get the most out of Islam. They pray five times a day. They are careful that their actions are virtuous (halal) and not sinful (haram). They practice whole-heartedly, and they are devout. I've met a few like this and they are good and happy men.

But for some Saudis, particularly young ones, being Muslim seems more of  an obligatory posturing than genuine faith. Sure, they may go to the mosque to pray, but they may nearly run you over with their cars on the way there. Sure, they may observe Ramadan, but they may also run off to Bahrain to go drinking and whoring when the month is over. 

Islam is not a choice for Saudis. They are born Muslim and they are expected to act Muslim.  For an ex-pat, being non-Muslim is not always accepted, but it is for the most part  tolerated, provided you follow the rules.

Islam is an inexorable part of Saudi culture; this society is built around it. I could live here twenty years and speak the language fluently, and never feel culturally integrated without adopting Islam. On the other hand, if I were to become Muslim, I feel like I could integrate...and I think that says something significant, because having lived in Korea for two years, I can say with confidence that I could spend twenty years in Korea, religion or no, and still not feel culturally integrated there.

Budapest: The Land of Milk and Honey

Budapest was amazing! I got to stay for a full week with my old pal Dave and finally meet his family. So, granted, I did get a much different perspective hanging out in Budapest than I did living in Paris, but I have a feeling that even had I just been there as a tourist staying in a hotel, I would have enjoyed it more than Paris.

The biggest reason is that Budapest is a much more livable city--the weather is great, there are lots of parks and nice places to walk around, and the prices are more than reasonable. The food, by the way is amazing. I had some of the best meat in my  life here, and the produce is just as good. One day, we went to a massive building full of produce stalls, and it was one of the most beautiful things I've ever seen.

In Paris, I was afraid to do much, because everything was so expensive, but in Budapest, I spent about the same amount, even though I was there for nearly twice as long, and I got two massages, went to the cinema, went to a poker room (lost $50), and went to the thermal bath.

Paris, does have it's charms, but Budapest is really has Paris licked in nine out of ten areas. To illustrate, I'll pretend I'm writing a break up letter to Paris:



Dear Paris,

This is never easy to say, but I think we both knew what was coming. I've met someone new. Her name is Budapest. We have only been seeing each other for a week, but I think it's fair to say that we are in love. 

Paris, I know you may be taking this hard, but our relationship had to many rainy days. For me and Budapest it's all sunny weather. I know you have a certain timeless beauty about you...but Budapest has a youthful vigor that, I'm sorry darling, but that you just lack. 

I know that you're practically world renowned for your cooking, but frankly I think you're cooking isn't that great. Budapest's cooking is much better and she always uses fresh ingredients. Can you say that? And she never skims off the top either. When I give Budapest twenty euros for a meal, she makes me a feast for kings. When I give you twenty euros...well, let's just say I don't feel so princely. 

And if after dinner, I want to walk around outside with a beer or two, Budapest doesn't mind at all. As long as I don't get drunk and start knocking things over, she's just happy that I come home in one piece. Of course she isn't quite as tolerant as you of smoking, but can you blame her? It's a terrible habit, after all. 

I know you may be heartbroken for a while, but take courage. You have plenty of suitors, and I have every confidence you will get on just fine without me. 

Best wishes,

Brady



Really, there is too much to tell in one blog entry, but I had a wonderful time thanks to Dave and his wonderful wife and daughter. I hope very much to make it back in August, and am even planning to invest in some real estate there. I love this city so much, I cannot say enough about it. For anyone planning a European vacation please go anywhere else, I want to keep Budapest a secret!